Day 61-Friday, July 25th
Mood:  a-ok
Now Playing: I can't believe that I am in Illinois

As predicted, we all arose early. We had breakfast, loaded the bikes and were on the street by 7:30 AM.

I don't know what I expected at this point, but it sure wasn't what I saw.  Downtown St. Louis was wonderful!  The architecture was neat!  As I stopped at a stop light in front of Busch Stadium I listened to a tape of Hank Aaron getting a hit.  Seeing St. Louis made me want to come back again for a longer visit. 

There is a bike/pedestrian walkway on one side of the bridge.  It was a little narrow, and when I yelled "Wide Load coming" at two walkers, they had to sqeeze themselves to the wall to give me room.  Jim and Diana led me to almost the halfway point over the Mississippi River, then we took commemorative photos, said our farewells and parted.  They were a wonderful host and hostess.

It was going to be a long day today if I rode all the way to Mt. Vernon, Illinois.  It was about 85 miles, not a distance that I was excited about, but I was excited about meeting up with Karen's cousin, Jack Ingersol. 

Jack, a retired commercial airplane pilot, had been following my trip through my journal, and he decided that he would like to be a small part of it.  So, leaving his home in Bloomington, MN, he drove all the way to Mt. Vernon, IL.  He will drive along my route as a support vehicle, carrying my gear, scouting out good eats, providing cold water and treats for breaks, and just being good company.  He will start his return to Minnesota late Sunday afternoon.  You just can't imagine how grateful I am for his driving all of the way down here.

There is one highway that starts just after the Eads Bridge, and goes all the way to Mt. Vernon.  As long as I watched the highway signs, it would be hard to get lost (though past experience has determined that a certain amount of awareness is helpful).  Around 9 AM I found a Denny's, and had breakfast #2.  Lunch, around 2:15 PM, was in Nashville.  Yes, weight is slowly starting to come back on.

I was expecting very hilly country in southern Illinois, and was pleased to find it relatively level.  Southern Indiana has much hillier terrain than this, but I am grateful for the difference.  The hills will come soon, certainly in Kentucky.  This terrain reminds me of northern Indiana, where I was born and raised.  Lush fertile soil.  Corn well over 8' high.  It is a gorgeous sight.

Finally, I entered the Mt. Vernon city limits.  I got here before Jack.  My odometer confirmed that I had traveled 85 miles.  Since several interstate highways bisect this town, there were lots of housing options.  We got adjoining rooms at the Quality Inn.  My motel choices seemed to have gotten a little classier (This is a relative term.  Those that have been following my journal know that I know motels in low places) but I'm sure that will change once I am in rural Kentucky. 

Tomorrow, we will set off early for Shawneetown.  It is a small town close to the Kentucky state line (I guess it's also the Illinois state line).  Isn't it interesting that I can traverse Illinois in two days.  Kentucky will take well over a week.

Will McMahan

Day 60-Thursday, July 24th
Mood:  a-ok
Now Playing: What a nice safe bike trail....Crash!

I had made arrangements with the owners of this Bed and Breakfast to have breakfast at 8 AM, quite late for me, but typical for B&Bs.  This gave me a chance to sleep in, which I took advantage of, arising at 5:45 AM.

By the time other bodies were stirring, I had two cups of coffee, and was packed and ready to go.  I tried to figure if I was just imagining the disdainful attitude of the owners.  The breakfast was good and sufficient for my needs.  I loaded the panniers on the bike.  Since the sky was overcast, the weatherman notwithstanding, I put rain covers over the panniers. 

I called Diana Oleskevich.  She was going to ride her bike out to St. Charles from St. Louis.  Since the distance for her was about the same as mine, we would try to synchronize our departure times.  So far everything seemed to be working as if we knew what we were doing.

The ride started smoothly.  The temperature was mild because of the overcast. Then it started to rain.  Lightly at first, then harder--sort of a decent Puget Sound rain.  My rain jacket still hasn't figured out that it is supposed to repel the water, and soon I was soaked to the skin.  The miles started going by as the legs kept churning.

Trouble started about 12 miles out from St. Charles.  Somehow, I got some sunscreen into my left eye.  Since I hadn't put any on today, it must have been some on my forehead that I had not washed off.  It stung like the dickens, and I resigned myself to having my left eye closed until St. Charles.  Then my right eye started having the same problem, but not as bad.  Finally, when I could not keep my right eye open either, I stopped, found a cloth and wiped my eyes.  It worked for about 5 seconds on my left eye but the right seemed okay, so off I went.  Every mile or so, I had to repeat this.  When it happened a fourth time, I discovered that the cloth had fallen out of my pocket, so I used my wet shirt under the rain jacket.  I swear that this 12 mile stretch was one of the most miserable times during my whole trip so far.  When I got to the restaurant, I could hardly see the sign for the restrooms.  Once there, I washed and rinsed my face and head thoroughly.   Air conditioning isn't nearly so pleasant when your soaked, I discovered.

Diana arrived.  We had a nice lunch then took off for St. Louis.  The route was a conglomeration of bike trails, and roads through subdivisions and industrial parks, and city streets.  At one point I was thinking "What a nice, pleasant bike trail!  Paved.  Scenic...".  About that time I cut a corner too closely and my front tire slid off the trail, tipping my bike over and I with it.  Note to self:  "If you are going to fall, try to do it gracefully next time".  No damage, except for a couple of road rashes and, of course, my pride.  It was the first fall I have had this entire trip.  Hopefully my last.

When we got to the Oleskevich's house, I had clocked in 55 miles.  Still wet.  Both Jim and Diana had commitments, so I took the opportunity to eat, shower and do laundry.  When they came home we had a delightful evening talking about our ride.  I wonder if Diana pushed me off the trail, out of jealousy of my bike?  Hmm.  Not.

Tomorrow both Jim and Diana will escort me to the downtown bridge that will take me across the Mississippi River into Illinois.  We will be getting up early, have an early breakfast, then head out.

Will McMahan

Day 59-Wednesday, July 23rd
Mood:  not sure
Now Playing: You want how much?

I needed an early start today if I was going to make up for the lesser miles ridden yesterday.  So after arising at 5 AM, and doing devotions, I packed up and had the hotel courtesy van take me back to the North Jefferson trailhead.  I sent a couple of emails, ate a PB&J tortilla, and started riding at 6:20 AM.  The skies were covered with clouds, but the TV weatherman, a trustworthy looking individual, said there was zero probablity of rain this day.  As a vote of confidence, I splashed on my last sunscreen.

The Trail seemed to have rebounded from the heavy rains of yesterday and I seemed to be able to sustain a 10-11 mph pace.  At this rate I should arrive at my intended destination, Augusta, in the late afternoon.

Something was missing.  What is it?  I know.  The birds are not singing like they did the last two mornings, even in the rain.  Maybe they are waterlogged (I would understand).  Maybe they were on strike.  But it was unusual. 

A doe was grazing beside the trail as I approached.  It stared (it was probably thinking "What a cool looking bike!) before realizing that I was getting too close for comfort.  It said something because then two fawns lifted their heads, and all three disappeared into the brush.

Since leaving Boonville yesterday, the Trail followed the Missouri River, and would continue to do so until reaching the eastern terminus at St. Charles.  However, the big difference since Boonville yesterday, was that the trail was almost completely flat.  For the last 165 miles, there was maybe 10-15 miles with a slight grade.  The rest was level.  What this meant when the railroad was running is that the tracks were often flooded to one degree or another.  There was a large rock next to the trail where the high flood levels were marked on the rock.  At one point, during a major flood, almost all of the last 165 miles were under 6" to 6' of water.

After a couple of hours, I needed to find some more food, and Teppets fit the bill.  This little town had a small grocery in a single wide mobile home.  It actually was much nicer than it sounds.  I ate three sweet rolls, drank a bottle of milk, gulped down some coffee, then headed out again.

Lunch time came in the town of Rhineland.  It was a bar/grill.  Their special was fried chicken which I ordered.  The TV above the bar was on the Food Channel and a table of ladies were listening intently to the host.  Maybe the actual cook at this place should have spent some time watching the program because, hungry as I was, dried fried chicken is hard to eat.  The ladies left and a crew of men took their table.  They either liked Rachel Raye, or whatever she was cooking, or else she was more interesting than each other, because they paid closer attention to her than the women had.

Slowly but surely the miles passed by.  The River provided some stunning views.  During one break, I started calling to find lodging in Augusta.  In the Katy Trail Handbook that I had absconded from Brent Hunter, all the lodging seemed to be Bed and Breakfasts.

My first call was somewhat disturbing when the pricing was in the $120 and up range.  I said that I was not looking for an experience, I was looking for a place to sleep and shower.  She dropped the price to $100.  Still way too much.  I kept calling, and called every B&B.  One lady offered her $135 room for $85.  I accepted.  Having stayed at many places, I had never paid that much, but a deal is a deal.

The irony is that even though I was the only guest, and even though the owner would have received nothing had we not agreed on $85, she did not act as a gracious hostess.  Instead she acted begrudging about my presence.  For example, upon finding out that they were rising much later than I in the morning, I asked if they could get the coffee pot ready so that I could just hit the power button in the morning for some coffee.  She thought about it for a bit then said "Well, I guess I could" as if it were quite a concession.  I asked if I could do a little laundry.  Same response.  I gladly paid $5 for the service.  In the morning I was chatting with her husband until she came in the kitchen, then she asked me to go to the dining room table and wait for my food.  Oh well.

Tomorrow I will be riding into St. Louis.  First I had to ride to the Katy Trail trailhead in St. Charles, then meet up with Diana Oleskevich for lunch.   Then she would lead me back to she and her husband's house.  The weather today was great-not too hot-temperatures in the mid-80's.  Tomorrow was suposed to be cloudy.  It might rain on Friday when I was leaving St. Louis.

Will McMahan

Day 58-Tuesday, July 22nd
Mood:  a-ok
Now Playing: Rain, rain and more rain.

The weather forecast was absolutely incorrect!  It called for scattered thunderstorms, and they were not scattered.  Instead they were all directly over me all morning and part of the afternoon.  Believe it or not, it rained four inches.   That's right, four inches.

I awoke early and prepared to get an early start.  There were few accommodations in the distance that I wanted to accomplish, 80 miles more or less.  So I needed to get going.  By 6:30 AM, I was on the Trail.  There was evidence that it had rained during the night, but it had mostly dried up.  Nonetheless, I had put rain covers over the panniers before leaving.  In addition, I put my rain jacket and rain pants in an easily accessible pocket for quick use.  The skies were dark, but one never knows if it will rain or not, so I kept rolling. 

About 15 minutes after leaving a light rain started to fall.  The drops increased in size.  At one point they even started to sting when they hit me, but this only lasted 15-30 seconds, then the drops decreased in size while increasing in intensity.  I donned my jacket.

I'm not sure why they call it a rain jacket.  I thought that it meant that it was supposed to keep the rain out.  But I suspect that this jacket thinks it means that it is supposed to let the rain in.  Within forty five minutes of starting, I was completely and irrevocably soaked for the day, even though the rain was not a terribly hard one.

Although I had a good breakfast before leaving, it soon came time for breakfast #2.  I kept watch for a restaurant (there just aren't that many around) and, lo and behold, I came across Lucy's Beverage and Burgers.  Lots of cars in front, a good sign at that time of the morning that they are serving food.  I put in an order for a big breakfast.  I would need it today.

As I was eating, the television above the bar had a special weather alert.  It showed this incredibly violent rain and wind storm in Columbia, Missouri.  I thought to myself "I just passed the trailhead to Columbia about two miles back."  Which made me look outside.  It looked distubingly similar to the television.  I could barely see the other side of the road through the rain.  Hmm.  Maybe I'll have another cup of coffee.  Other customers would wander up front to look out the windows, shake their heads, then head back to their tables.

This was looking bad in terms of me being able to get in my 80 miles.  The trail wetness slowed the bike a bit as well as created the occasional fishtail. 

Finally, the rain had reduced itself to a level I was familiar with, a Puget Sound rain (the kind where you need an umbrella or rain coat.), not too hard but steady, and definitely rideable.  Even though the temperature was in the 70's, I was cold at first, shivering pretty good for the five minutes.  The second five minutes were better, and from that point forth, I was warm but wet.

Even though I felt more like I was slogging along instead of pedalling, I was making progress.  Things would have to improve, however, if I was going to make 80 miles.  That is when I reached the part of the Trail which was under water for as far as I could see.  Now what the heck do I do?  I wasn't going to wade through it for a number of reasons, not the least of which is it would soak much of my gear.

So I turned around and rode back the way I came about one half mile until I came to a little used farm implement road that crossed the Trail and connected to a gravel farm road about 150' to the south.  The road, used by farmers to get into their fields looked to parallel the Katy Trail for some distance.  If this kept up, perhaps there would be another farm implement road that would cross back.  Between the Trail and this road was deep water.  Sure enough, about a mile down this road was a very little used road that could get me and the bike back onto the Trail without too much trouble.

The Trail was starting to be a little worse for wear because of the rain storm.  Tree branches and an occasional tree had fallen onto the Trail, blocking it in several circumstances.  I got off the bike and cleared one obstacle.  As I looked up, there, down the Trail a quarter mile, were headlights.  Not sure what this was about, I headed that direction.   The headlights belonged to the Missouri State Park Department, and they were clearing the Trail of felled trees.  Not sure why they sat there and watched me instead of helping, but it was nice to see that they were responding to the rain.

One surprise, besides the omnipresent bird calls (in the rain?), was the frequent interpretive boards discussing various aspects of the Lewis and Clark Expedition.  I had forgotten!  Lewis and Clark went up the Missouri (they were to try to find the source as well as many other things.)  It was fascinating to stand on the very spots where they had camped.  There was one of the caves that they discovered right there beside the Trail.  Signs asked that it not be entered because the species of bats inside were endangered.

Because of the delay during the previous deluge, the slow progress on the wet Trail, and the flooded portion that I had to bypass, I clearly was not going to put in the miles today that I had hoped for.  After 50 miles, I arrived at North Jefferson, which is on the north side of the Missouri River from Jefferson City, Missouri's capitol.  This may sound like I was in suburbia, but it was a very rural area.  Crossing the bridge into Jefferson City was not an exciting prospect.  I found a phone number for a hotel in town, and they had a shuttle van.  Within 20 minutes they had arrived, loaded up the bike, the gear and myself, and we headed to the hotel.  The only duties remaining were showering and eating.  I was starved.

Tomorrow, according to the weather forecasters, is supposed to be clear and warmer, but not in the 90's.  With an early start, I might be able to make it to Augusta, which had a bunch of B&Bs.  It was 78 miles away.  We'll see what tomorrow brings.

Will McMahan

Day 57-Monday, July 21st
Mood:  a-ok
Now Playing: So this is the Katy Trail!

I had never heard of the Katy Trail until two friends, Brent and Linda Hunter, spent a week last year riding it.  It has a certain mystique, but the biggest thing in its favor, in my mind, is the fact that it is 225 miles long.  Although drivers have been ultra-courteous, not having to deal with them for a few days is something to look forward to.  One other big advantage is that railroads try to not have their grade (angle of incline/decline) not exceed 2%.  Thus, for a short time anyway, I won't have those steep hills to climb.   Likewise I won't have steep hills to descend, but that is a tradoff that I can comfortably live with.

This was going to be another scorcher, so I listened to Karen's advice and started early.  By 7 AM, having re-conquered the Country Kitchen Restaurant, I went to the Trailhead.  Normally I have a good sense of direction but it was lacking this morning.  When I got to the trail, it went both directions.  I was sure that to the left was east, but the sun was rising from the other direction, so that the way I went.

Apparently, the Trail is mostly in use on weekends.  This day, it was quiet.  The railroad stopped running in 1986, and this gave trees plenty of time to grow alongside the railroad bed, forming a canopy.  Almost, at times, a tunnel.  For this day, at least, the countryside would be mostly obscured by the close vegetation.  But this is a birder's paradise.   Cardinals galore.  I heard them long before they became active.  There were some flycatchers on the powerline.  An unseen wren gurgled its bubbly call from a bush as I rode past.  A pileated woodpecker took flight.  A large brown bird took flight up the path.  The canopy kept it contained and it landed up a ways, then took off again as I neared.  At first I thought of a type of heron, but then thought it might be a great horned owl.  Still it was so big, it might have been some type of eagle.  I don't know.  But the birds were fun to watch the whole day.

By 9 AM, it was time to eat again.  I exited into a town called Windsor, and had my second breakfast of the day (got to get that weight back that I lost earlier).  It came to me that the real eye candy of this day was going to be the towns, not the Trail.  These towns were all small but in a good way.  they had character and were well maintained.  It was like a step back in time, and each town had its own history. 

In Sedalia I had lunch.  It seemed that I was drinking more than eating.  Probably a reaction to the heat, even though I didn't feel dehydrated.   Put a tall glass of iced tea in front of me, and it disappeared quickly.

If you have ever had the experience of driving a car, then hitting a some black ice, and have your car suddenly fishtail as you fight for control, you will identify with what happened today.  The trail itself is not paved.  It is finely crushed limestone, and is remarkably good to ride on.  Unfortunately, there was a short stretch, probably less than 100 feet, where some new limestone had been spread but not rolled.  When I rode into it, there was no traction and the bike suddenly started fishtailing as I fought for control.  I'm surprised that they didn't put up a warning sign.

When I was reading up on the Katy Trail, I gathered the impression that the railroad made these towns viable and that they died or were dying until the rail-trail was created.  This sort of thinking reminds me of the three blind men who each touched a different part of an elephant (the trunk, the tail and the side) and described the animal, all woefully wrong, based upon what they were touching.  My impression of these towns was equally wrong.  They were viable before the rail-trail was put in, and it is just a very minor part of the local economy.  As a side point, the Katy Trail is actually a Missouri Sate Park.  Probably one of its larger ones, even though it is narrow.

The question that needed answering is in what town would I stay tonight?  The Trail is 225 miles long, then I have another 25 miles with Diana Olesevich into St. Louis, and I have to complete it in four days.  Since I wanted to lessen the risk of being late to meet Diana on Thursday, it would need to be the shortest day.  Therefore today would need to be a longer day, depending on where the towns landed.  I decided to stay tonight in Boonville, a nice town 72 miles down the trail.  It is also where the Katy Trail meets, and will follow to its end, the Missouri River.  That leaves 153 miles to the eastern trailhead.  If I can 120-130 miles in the next two days, then that would leave only 23-33 miles left to the trailhead.

Of course, weather may have something to say about it.  The forecast for the next several days is scattered thunderstorms, so who knows what will happen.  All the more reason to do more miles earlier.  The cold front which is causing the weather changes will also drop the temperatures a bit.  Tomorrow's high will be 92 but the following two days will be in the low 80's.

Who knows what tomorrow will bring?  We will find out then, and respond accordingly. 

Will McMahan

Day 56-Sunday, July 20th
Mood:  hungry
Now Playing: Are we there yet?

Super 8 Motels have a breakfast of sorts, but is wasn't much:  cereal, juice and coffee. 

This being Sunday, I started down the road with the thought that the Lord would bring me to the church of His choice.  Today it was the Church of the Nazarene in Harrisonville.  I parked my bike out front and walked inside.  Two men were fiddling with a laptop computer, and I asked if it were okay to worship there today, dressed in my bright bicycle shirt and shorts?  Of course, they said.  The one young man was the pastor of the church.  As we compared notes, I mentioned that I was from Everett, Washington.  He was born and raised in Marysvile, Washington, a town a few miles north of Everett.  He had moved to Harrisonville five years ago.  Small world.

In every church I have visited, the congregation has been friendly and welcoming.  This group, however, raised the bar, and were the most engaging group that I have encountered during my travels.  The service was nice, and by 10:45 AM I was on the road.  I needed to eat.  A Burrito restaurant fit the bill.

For some reason, I just didn't have the energy today.  Maybe it was a carryover from the long day yesterday.  Maybe I hadn't eaten right.  Maybe it was the late start.  Probably it was all three.  But today's bicycling was work.  Of course, it was 96 degrees again, but I lacked stamina for some reason.  Nevertheless, I did arrive in Clinton.  I felt like there was a little child sitting on my shoulder saying over and over "Are we there yet?"

The road from Harrisonville to Clinton had an eight foot shoulder.  Some difference from Kansas.

It is funny how a shower makes all the difference in the world.  I was ready to conquer the world again.  I had to settle for conquering the Country Kitchen Restaurant.

Tomorrow would be the start of the Katy Trail.  On the fourth day, Thursday, I will meet Diana Oleskevich at the eastern trailhead, and follow her to their home in St. Louis.  Karen and I met Jim and Diana Oleskevich at a charity auction in Seattle two years ago.  They are avid bicyclers, so they were interested in my plans for this cross country trip.  They said that if I go through on the Katy Trail, they would like meet me on the Trial and escort me to their home.  So that is what will be happening.

Will McMahan

meet me in St. Louis?
  Hi Wil - hope to be able to connect with you in MO and ride a bit on your journey...your dates and ours don't look good to intersect if you plan to be in Clinton at start of KATY trail on the 22nd, that would put you in to STL on the 25th and that's the date we would be leaving...just have fun and relax and enjoy the trip - what happens will be just fine!  We biked this morning in light showers then plenty of humidity but not too much sunshine - whew!!  Diana and Jim

Day 55-Saturday, July 19th
Mood:  a-ok
Now Playing: Oh no! Not again!

I awoke at 6 AM this morning.  The drug dealers had not stolen my bike, as the boys had feared yesterday.  The sky was cloudy with some blue showing, and this looked to be a good day if I could get everything packed and loaded.  Several people had recommended a restaurant east of town called Marilyn's, so at 7:30 AM I started through town.

My objective for today was to get to Louisburg, KS, about 68 miles east, and 4 miles from the state line with Missouri.  It is a decent sized town, and is located right where two major highways intersect.  Shouldn't be a problem finding a room.

Passing a barbershop, I noticed it was open.  Anyone open at 7:30 in the morning deserves some business.  Karen had given me my last haircut before I left, and even though she cut it very short (except for a few spots), it was due for another trim.  The barber, a young man, quickly understood that I was in a hurry to get going, so he called Marilyn's Restaurant and placed an order for me, then started clipping.  He had said that I would be there in 10 minutes.  He finished cutting my hair in 10 minutes.  I still had to get there, and I'm pretty slow.

Yet, somehow, the breakfast was perfectly done when brought to my table.  It was a large breakfast, and I ate quickly.  When paying my tab, I asked the cashier what the weather forecast was.   She said "Rain."  She was right.

At first it rained lightly.  I put rain covers over my panniers, and had my rain jacket and pants ready.  After awhile the intensity of the rain increased, and I donned the jacket, but visibility was not obscured, an important safety concern.

A couple of hours later I saw a little cafe beside the road and thought this might be a good opportunity to eat again.  The rain had stopped and the sky was clearing but I looked like a drowned rat when I walked into the cafe.  Nevertheless several people asked about my trip.  One fellow cautioned that the rain would increase the humidity, which combined with temperatures in the mid-90's would make it uncomfortable riding.  (He ended up being absolutely right)

A woman, who was accompanied by two men, started a dialogue about my journey, and I chatted with all three of them until me meal came.  She asked me if I miss everyone back home.  I replied (probably a little too fervantly) "I miss my wife!"  Then I explained that we talk once or twice day.  At any rate, as the threesome was leaving, one of the men said "It was nice meeting you.  We picked up your tab."   I couldn't believe it.

The rest of the ride to Louisburg was uneventful.  The terrain started with hills then low areas then hills again.  At some point the hills lessened, and I hoped that maybe the ground would remain relatively flat for awhile.  Hills just slow me down, are tiring, and make for a long day.  The hills recommenced about 15 miles out of Louisburg. 

I thought I was looking at a mirage.  On the left ahead was an authentic cider mill, and they were selling iced cold fresh apple cider.  I gulped down several large glasses.  Boy did that hit the spot.!  Oh, this would be a good time to get the skinny on motels in Louisburg.......there weren't any.  You would think that I would have learned from my previous lessons and checked first.  I was so sure....   Well my options were limited, but the best one seemed to be continuing east into Missouri and stopping at a major town called Harrisonville.  Just to be safe, using my cell phone, I googled the town and there were plenty of motel options.

First things first.  I had to eat.  The only viable option at the moment was McDonalds, so McDonalds it was for my third meal of the day.

it is interesting that in Kansas the amount of shoulders on the roads that I was traveling vary from county to county.  By far the predominate shoulder width through most of eastern Kansas was 2-4 inches.  That meant that I had to ride on the left side of the white line, and cars and trucks would have to be accommodative.  Fortunately, they all were.

Harrisonville, MO is a sizable town with a population around 8,000, I think.  I was in dire need of a shower. I'm not sure that the town would have tolerated my presence if I didn't take one, so Super 8 motel fit the bill.  Actually, the real problem with me not showering, to me at least, isn't the smell, it is the salt accumulation for all of the perspiration, and after a day, the skin starts to chafe against the clothing and create sores.  After showering, I went across the street to Applebys and had another meal, this time a shrimp salad with a chocolate shake and dessert.  Unfortunately, I discovered, at the end of the next day that I left my American Express card at Applebys.  Bye bye AMEX

This ended up being a long day covering over 90 miles again, in pretty undesirable bicycling weather, but at least I would have a much shorter ride tomorrow.  And with tomorrow being Sunday, I would have time to attend a service in town, and have a later start than normal.

Tomorrow's destination is Clinton, MO, and Clinton is the western terminus for the Katy Trail. 

Will McMahan

Day 54-Friday, July 18th
Mood:  a-ok
Now Playing: Who brought the rain?

I'm leaving Manhattan this morning.  It has been wonderful renewing friendships with my cousins, but I must start eastward again.  The weather reports last night forecast a 30% chance of rain, but further north they were projecting 5-6".   What will today bring?

I woke up several times during the night,and each time it was raining prety good.  So when I got up at 6 AM, I took my time.  I don't mind riding in rain.  I just hate to start when it is raining.

When I left at 8 AM, the rain had stopped.  The skies were completely overcast, looking for all the world like it was going to start dumping water at any minute.  Manhattan is fairly big, and it took a while to get through town.  Soon I was heading south towards Council Grove, about 38 miles south of town.

The countryside was beautiful--all pasture, some of it the original tall grass from before the white man's arrival.  The cloud cover was exceedingly low, with wisps flowing over the pasture.  With all of the green hues, it suddenly struck me what this scenery looked like:  Ireland.  It was a fun, but slow ride.  No rain yet.

Lunch was had at the Hayes House in Council Grove.  This is a very old hotel that was restored in 1974.

My objective for today is Osage City.  It has several thousand citizens.  Towns that size almost always have motels.  Osage City, however, did not.  I thought I would double check once I got there.

It was another 40 miles to Osage City.  The shoulder of the road varies from county to county.  For the most part, there is no shoulder.   As usual, the drivers were courteous.  On the way to Osage City, I crossed paths with my cousin, Garalyn Tout.  It was her house that I was staying in in Manhattan.  It was nice to rest and chat with her and her husband R.C.  I hated to leave them.  I told them I was tempted to take their cat with me.  R.C. and Garalyn had ridden through the rain, but I must have had the proper karma, because it did not rain all day.

Entering town, I noticed a police car behind me.  I flagged it over.  I asked if there were any motels.  He said no, but I could camp, for free, in the city park if I wished.  That is what I decided to do.  There were no showers but it did have restrooms.

Three boys, between 10-12, were fascinated by my bicycle and the whole adventure.  When I mentioned that I was going to walk up several blocks to the BP Convenience Store for some beverages, the boys begged for me to ride instead.  They wanted to see the bike in action (apparently the rider didn't count for much), and they wanted to ride their bikes too.   But first they had to get home for supper, so I promised not to go to the BP until they returned.  It didn't take long.  It reminded me of what it was like to be that age, in the hot days of summer.  The boys were really fun and nice.  Their parents let them have the run of the town.  There are still places that are safe, I guess.  However, they were concerned about some older boys that they said were drug dealers.  They were also in the park.  The younger boys were not concerned about the drugs.  They were concerned about my bike getting stolen.

Tomorrow I head to Louisburg, KS,which is 4 miles from the Missouri state line.  It is about 70 miles away.  It will take me a while to break camp but I would like to on the road by 7:30 AM.

Will McMahan

thinking of you
hope all continues to go well...kansas folks are really nice ...we have been to manhattan many times.  keep on keeping on.  love from your boulder buddies....