Day Seven-June 1st
Mood:  energetic
Now Playing: Grit your teeth and keep those legs pumping!

Karen and I left the Hewitt's home early this morning.  We had breakfast in Republic at 7 AM, enjoying the food and coffee while purusing the newspaper.  It was wet outside, a light sprinkle falling.

We left Republic arouind 8:20 AM, knowing that this might be the biggest challenge yet.  There were not supposed to be many level parts of the climb, and the road to Sherman's Pass has the reputation of having a number of very steep parts.

In my opinion, its reputation is well deserved.  We followed the same pattern as yesterday, resting about every 3-5 miles (5 miles closer to the bottom, 3 miles closer to the top). 

By 12:30 we made the summit.  The climb was difficult, but the low gearing on the bicycle prevailed.

Ironically, the only problem I encountered was on the descent.  The clouds were low, the elevation high, and a light drizzle fell.  I put on my thick rain coat, rain pants, a headband (to keep my ears warm), long fingered gloves, and a helmet cover.  Still I froze.  Karen and I had arranged to meet about 10 miles downhill.  When I pulled up, we cranked up the heat in the car.  It took awhile for the shivering to go away.   This was a good lesson for the future.  There are some things I could have done, but didn't, to keep warmer. 

After a delicious lunch on the Columbia River crossing, we took off to finish the last leg of the day, to arrive in Colville.  I was pretty darned tired when we had arrived at the restaurant, but the rest and food was just what my body needed.  I was strong the rest of the way.

We wanted to find a nice place to spend the night, and boy did we find it. Our hotel in Colville, a Comfort Inn, was much nicer than we had anticipated.  A special surprise was a laundry next to the lobby.  My clothes were definitely ready for the washer!

Most of the next few days will be more normal type of riding.  Some climbing, but nothing major.  The land elevation will slowly but surely increase.  In less than two weeks, I'll be staying in West Yellowstone, whose elevation is around 6,700'.

I was supposed to have a rest day in Colville, but since I took one in Okanogan, I will journey on in the morning. 

The sad news is that Karen will be heading back home.  I sure enjoyed her company.   She has been a real trooper about my trip, and came immediately when I asked, without complaint.  However, it would be a slow torture (maybe not so slow) for her to continue SAGging me across the country.  I love her too much to ask her to submit to that kind of agony. 

So tomorrow, I'm off again.  Its supposed to be rainy the next few days.

Will McMahan

Day Six-Saturday, May 31st
Mood:  energetic
Now Playing: Just try to stop me!

Karen and I gave our goodbyes and thanks to the Talmadges for their hospitality.  Around 8:30 AM, we departed for the town of Republic (population 900).

Our strategy today was to have lunch in Tonasket, about 35 m/l miles into the trip.  Immediately out of Tonasket, I had to cross Wauconda Pass in order to reach Republic.  Neither I nor almost anyone I know has ever heard of Wauconda Pass.   Yet it is steeper and higher than the better known Stevens and Snoqualamie Passes.  I was to test my new theory of jettisoning the camping gear, thus lightening the load.  

In bicycling, a person or persons that support a bicycler(s) is called a SAG (no that does not stand for Stage Actors Guild, Californians).  Karen drove as SAG for me, stopping at  predetermined distances, and provided fresh water and food.  Since the climb was often steep, I would be in a low gear, generating a top speed of 4 mph.  An hour of climbing is physically taxing, so Karen would find a spot 3.5 to 4 miles ahead for me to rest and replenish. 

 

The  ride went well.  Whether my legs were getting stronger, or the lighter load made it a bit easier or the good Lord watched over me, the ride went as planned.  It was fun for me to have Karen along.  She was a very good and supportive sport, but I wouldn't say that she would consider being a SAG as fun.

 In Republic, I had arranged to stay at the home of some bicycling enthusiasts, Boyd and Diane Hewitt.  Although we had never met, they laid down the welcome mat, provided a delicious dinner, and we had interesting converstaions.  Boyd is a foreman at a local gold mine and it was very enlightening to hear how the gold is mined and processed.

Having lived in Wyoming, along the path where I will be traveling, they were aghast at the thought of me jettisoning my tent.  There were vast distances where there were no motels or places to stay, but camping was available.  So it looks like the tent is going back on the bike as I leave Colville.

Tomorrow, we have the pleasure of scaling Sherman Pass, The highest pass in Washington.  Karen would provide SAG support again.  We intended to stay in Colville, about 60 miles away.  After Colville, she would head home, and I would venture east alone.

Will McMahan

Day five-Friday, May 30th
Mood:  happy
Now Playing: Boy, this rest day feels good!

Karen, in an uncharacteristically intrepid manner, is on her way over to Okanogan.  I am excited to see her.

Larry Talmadge has been a wonderful host while Joanne was working.  I met two of his kids and his brother.  We saw their place in Concunnely, and their previous cabin on Lake Concunnely.  What beautiful country!

 We met Joanne for lunch at this incredible retaurant in Omak called the Breadline.  If you are ever in Omak, do not, I repeat, do not, miss it.

On the way back to the Talmadge home, Larry says "I wonder if your tire is there yet."  Oh my gosh, I forgot about the tire (its amazing how good company, good food, and beautiful surroundings can cloud one's mind!)  As soon as we got to Larry's house, I called the supplier wanting to know why my tire had not arrived.  During the call, the doorbell rings.  It's Federal Express with the tire.  Wow.  See what a phone call will do!

Karen arrived around 5 PM, and we had another blissful dinner out on the Talmadge deck overlooking the valley.

We are going to test out the new strategy of jettisoning the camping gear.  Karen, as a safety valve, will accompany me for two days, until we get to Colville. 

I'll be back on the road on Saturday.  It is 30-40 miles to Tonasket, then a decent climb over the third mountain pass.  It is called Wauconda.  Starting at 900' of elevation at Tonasket, the pass is at 4,300 feet.  This will be a good test of everything:  carrying a lighter load (probably 35-38 lbs), I'm full hydrated and well fed and rested. 

Sunday presents the highest pass in the state of Washington.  It is called Sherman Pass.  It is 5,575' of elevation (don't sneer you Coloradans!). 

The original plan was to have a day of rest in Colville, and attend church there.  Since I took a day of rest yesterday, I do not want to attend church in Republic (the new Saturday night rest stop), get out near noon, then attempt Sherman Pass.  No, I think I'll do private devotions on Sunday.  Whether there will still be a rest day in Colville is still a question to be answered.

Will McMahan

Day Four-Thursday, May 29
Mood:  not sure
Now Playing: Could it be done again?

The good news:  Loup Loup, elevation about the same as Stevens Pass, 4,000+, was fairly short.  Twelve miles from the bottom to the top.

The bad news:  It started out very, very steep, about an 8% grade, for half a mile.  then after 3+ miles of climbing, there came 8 miles of 6 % grade (non-bicyclers, that is steep, especially with 50 pounds of gear). 

My strategy?  Make it up the first 1/2 mile, then rest.  Ride until I think the 6% grade starts, then rest.  Then hope to do either two shifts at 4 MPH with a break.  Or four shifts at 4 MPH with four breaks.  Or anything in between.  Just get to the summit.  Half the water worked yesterday, so it should be fine today, too (not!).

Today felt like two inner persons fighting, sort of a good vs. evil internally.  One voice is saying "Any pickup will take you over the pass.  Can you believe how weak you feel?  Why punish yourself."  The other voice is saying "I will be your strength. Abide in me"  No kidding.

I barely made it up the first 1/2 mile.

It is amazing to me that in second gear, low range, my bicycle could propel myself and my load up a pretty steep slope.  Just keep those legs moving.  Isn't that bird's song beautiful?  Ahh, feel that cool breeze.  Could I get in another mile before resting?

Good news:   I think I'm going to make it.  I'm not sure how much further to the summit, but I think I can do it.

Bad new:  I'm out of water.  It's hot.  There are no streams to replenish my thirst.  Who's dumb idea was that to bring half the water? 

I believe that I can make it to the summit with no water, without suffering health consequences.  If I start feeling bad, then I'll pull over and flag down some help.

After lunch, a little after noon, I start up thinking I have 3-4 miles to go, probably an hour of riding.  Within 1/2 mile there is a campground on the left!  Water!  No one is there when I pull in.  There is camping but not water.  Two travelers show up.  Neither has water for sale.  Back on the road.

Less than one half mile further there is a sign indicating that I am approaching the summit, and sure enough there it was.  It couldn't have been a mile from where I had lunch.  Now the worst case is that I coast downhill into Okanogan very thirsty. 

As I'm crossing the summit two bicyclers, coming from the opposite direction, reach the summit and pull over to a pickup.  I introduce myself, and guess what, they have lots and lots and lots of water!  Okanogan, here I come! (It doesn't take much to make me happy).

Larry and Joanne Talmadge live in Okanogon.  Joanne was an agent in my office in Everett before moving to eastern Washington.  They were gracious hosts with a blissful, shaded view of the Okanogon valley.  I had a spare tire delivered to their home, since I couldn't find one at home.  Unfortunately, it didn't arrive.  I decided to stay an extra day and hope it arrives tomorrow.  A blown tire with no spare would be a major problem.

The bonus is that Karen is coming over on Friday.  She'll stay with me at the Talmadge's home, then follow me to Colville, two days away.

My newest strategy is to jettison my camping gear to lighten up the load, then motel it to Boulder.  Karen will send the camping gear to Boulder since all the major mountain climbs will be behind me.  That is not to belittle steep hills or the Blue Ridge mountains, but it's the 3,00-4,500 hundred foot ascents that I'd like to be a little lighter.  My legs are getting stronger.

I can't wait for Karen to get here.  I miss her.

Will McMahan

 

Day Three
Mood:  don't ask
Now Playing: The first test

Washington Pass lay in front of me.  I had ridden over it twice last year on an upright bike, but I wanted to ride a recumbent.  Since it entailed some different leg muscles than an upright bike, I trained hard trying to get the muscles "climb ready".  Apparently they weren't.  Nevertheless, I was alone, smack in the middle of nowhere, no cell phone coverage, and I was going to ascend Washington Pass.

Washington Pass is 5,400-5,500 feet in elevation, one of the highest in the state.  My campground was at around 1,000 feet. It was thirty two miles to the summit, most of it uphill.  Last year I left at 9 AM and reached the summit at 2:30 PM.  It had been difficult but I felt strong.  What would today bring?

8:15 AM.  The first 3 miles are steep, probably a 6% grade.  before leaving, I drained off half my water, knowing that I could filter water from the steams on the hill (This turned out to be a sound strategy) .  I also jettisoned my entire cookset except for one small pot.  I still had to be carrying 50 pounds of gear.  Legs felt stiff and weak.  I prayed again.  I don't think I've prayed this much in years.

After the first three grueling miles, things perked up a bit.  The grade became much more managable and easier.   I felt I was barely moving, then noticed something up ahead.  It was another touring bicycler, and I was gaining on him!  In fact he ended up walking several times.  I was thankful about getting special gearing on the bike which helped move the huge load forward. 

The last four miles were a one mile descent followed by a three mile very steep climb.  The descent lasted less than two minutes.  The last three miles took 50 minutes.  BUT I MADE IT!!  With lots and lots of prayer.  I checked the time when reache the summit.  It was 2:30 PM.  For all of my thinking that I was going so slow, I was only 45 minutes slower than last year on the upright. 

There was still 32 miles to go.  Most of the first 10-15 miles were downhill.  The balance was gently downhill.  I arrived in Winthrop around 5 PM., just in time to meet my friends Karl and Harriet Groth at the KOA campground. 

I was a little amazed that I was so weak last night, then today I had scaled Washington Pass.  Go figure.  Of course, the next day's ride, Loup Loup, was the one I had been worried about for weeks.  It was shorter but steeper than Washington Pass.

Will McMahan

 

Day Two
Mood:  smelly
Now Playing: What evil lurks?

The first 60 miles of Tuesday were idyllic.  The weather was very pleasant and the modestly climbing rolling terrain sped past.  The goal was to have a large breakfast in Sedro Wooley, a nice lunch in Marblemount, and "camping fare", at the campsite about 10 miles east of Newhalem. 

Newhalem is a town built by Seattle City Light in order to manage the power generation of Ross and Diablo dams.I stopped at the little Newhalem grocery for tomorrow's treats.  It would be the last place for the next 50 miles.

 Have you heard of how marathoners "hit the wall" at the 20 mile mark?  All of a sudden their legs seem to lose their strength.  Although I've never had this happen to me before on any rides, this is what happened to me on the last ten miles.  The first climb out of Newhalem, a semi-steep one, (I had bicycled it, fully loaded with gear, the previous Summer with little problem) left me gasping for air.  As much as anything, it was the shock that I was having such difficulty at this small stage when I knew that the major difficulty still awaited.  Then there was a 3 mile steep grade that I strained and wobbled over, finally stopping at the campground, completely exhausted.  Had it not been for the fact that I knew I had to eat (it's like re-fueling your engine) I would have dropped off to sleep immediately.  It was around 6 PM. 

The campground had no potable water and was closed.  Actually, one could camp there for free if you had water.  Fortunately, I had a water purification kit, so I got water out of Diablo Lake, and ruminated on what kind of catastrophe was I going to have tomorrow.  Did I mention that no one else was in the campground that night?  I started praying.

Will McMahan

The Journey Begins
Now Playing: Summary of first day

Mid-morning on May 26th, I left home on the very first leg of my Cross Country trip.  The official departure photographer, Dave Miles, stood by Karen as she waved goodbye.

 

 

 

 

 

A pleasant surprise was that our pastor, Kevin Bates, rode out to our house in order to accompany me for the first 5 miles or so, after which he peeled off for his home. 

 

 

 

 

 

After checking out "Cruzing in Colby" and lunch, I headed for Mount Vernon. My first stop was at the home of our friends, Phil and Esther Harmon. 

 

After that, I rode to the home of Dave and Cindy Schuh, the middle son and daughter-in-law.  Dave installed a flag antenna on the back, and then his son, my grandson, Mattie, and his cousin, also my grandson, Andy, gave me a rousing send off by riding with me through the neighborhood before my leaving.  That was very nice of them.

 

 

My last stop was at the home of my grandson, Troy Schuh.  He and his fiancee were gracious hosts.  Troy had the magic touch in several games of Yatzee.

The weather had been pleasant, and the ride perfect.

Tomorrow should be good, with a couple of small climbs at the end.  Then there are four consecutive mountain passes in four consecutive days.  If I can survive them, then I should be okay for the rest of the trip.

Will McMahan

Will, Have a save and wonderful time.  I admire you for what your doing and look forward to you sharing your experiences with us. May God be with you on your journey. Ron and Dorothy

Be Safe
Mood:  celebratory

Will,

 Stay in the moment.  Be safe and thanks for sharing.

 

Jack

Have a GREAT trip

Thouhgt I woulld get to you before you took off tomorrow.

 I remember the times we walked to first grade at Harrison Hill in Ft Wayne, about 150 years ago, and all the times since.

 

I will be with you again on this rife of yours, im my mind, adn hopefullly a few days physically.

 

Hawk