Will's Second Bicycle Adventure
Thursday, 16 June 2016
Risk vs. reward

Today's ride to Winnet should not be hard. There was a climb going out of Lewistown, for 8 miles, then a downhill grade for the balance of the ride. The climb might take a couple of hours but the rest will make up for it.

At 7:45 AM, I left Lewistown.

The climbing started soon, but it was a gentle climb, one that could be made in a higher gear for an extra couple of miles per hour. Occasionally, I would have to gear way down, but not often. There were several "chain up" areas, indicating that the climb to the summit was about to begin.

Suddenly, I was over the top, and going downhill...fast! Only an hour had passed, and I was already over the harder part. And, man, was I flying. I was averaging 18-20 mph. When I took a break 25 miles into the 53 mile ride, I understood. I had a tailwind assisting me. A 10-15 mph tailwind is significant.

I arrived in Winnet before noon, and not feeling tired. Hmm, what if I went further? What lodging possibilities were there? Every extra mile ridden today was one less mile for tomorrow. Aha! There was a Bed and Breakfast/campground 23 miles further. It was a mile off the road, but if they were too expensive, I would camp. The only problem was that I only got a recording when I called, but I was determined to land there and likely camp.

Several miles from the B&B was a rest area. I refilled my water bottle, just in case. The constant hills were tiring, but I was surprised how good I felt. Finally I reached the driveway. An old faded sign, barely legible, announced it. The drive was gravel, and was okay until it went up steeply. Too steeply. I would have to walk the bike up that hill, so I checked my map, and found another place to camp up the road. Turning around, I went back to the highway, heading further east.

The trouble is that I had ridden over 70 miles, and this new location would put me over 90 miles. The map said they offered food, which I am sure would be welcome.

The rest of the ride seemed interminable. Every time I crested a hill, there was another one or two. Just when I thought I must be getting close to my destination, a highway sign announced it was another 7 miles. I was getting dangerously close to 100 miles.

Finally, I saw it down the hill on the left. Sand Springs was really just one builing, and it was closed. Now what? I am out of water and the next place to stay is 32 miles up the road, too far in my weakened condition.

First of all, it did not look like the store was closed petmanently. I had arrived after it closed for the day. Secondly, my bicycle map said that camping would be behind the building. I walked behind, picked a spot, set up set up the tent, left a not for the proprietor that I would settle up in the morning, drank several bottles of water, and retired into the tent.

Strange as it may sound, I was not hungry. I had several freeze dried meals along with a backpacking stove, but I did not want to chance a fire in the stiff wind , especially when I was unsure if it was okay to even be there. Besides the idea of food did not appeal to me.

So I ate two Power Bars, and settled in for the night. During devotions, I pondered how God had strengthened me, and enabled me to ride for 99 miles today, 40 of which was a grind. Thank you, Lord. 

 


Posted by willmcmahan at 12:01 AM PDT
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Wednesday, 15 June 2016
Getting to a jumping off spot.

There are still a number of days left in Montana, but, by my reckoning, there are two back-to-back days that will be very taxing. In three days, a 75 mile trip to Jordan will be very difficult, with few places to get food or water. The next day would be 68 miles, with similar terrain: up, down, up, down, up, down, up, down, etc. After that things will get easier.

Unlike in a vehicle, a bicycler has to pay close attention to overnight accommodations or camping, and access to food and water. Thus, in plotting out a reasonable short term itinerary, today's ride will be only 39 miles, then a 53 miler, then two tough days of 75 and 68 miles, respectively.  It was the terrain, not the distance of those last two days that were of concern.

After the scare of being caught in a violent storm yesterday, I am very happy to have only 39 miles to contend with today. It should get me into a major town, Lewistown (with a population over 5,000) fairly early. Another thunderstorm is expected in the evening. It would be nice to not have to deal with it.

It felt cold this morning. For the first time this trip, I donned winter clothing for the day. Heavy woolen socks. Long sleeved undergarment. Head band to cover the ears. Thick, heavy winter bicycling gloves. Rain jacket and rain pants. This was a case of rare good judgement on my part. Yes, it rained part of the time, but I was very comfortable.

The scenery is changing again. The trees are back. This is beautiful country with lots of rivers and streams.

Lewistown, as a municipality in the area, had all the stores not normally found in most towns, such as Albertsons grocery. Since I got into town early, I went into Albertsons and purchased some bananas and Power Bzrs.

Tomorrow is a 53 mile ride to Winnet, then two grinding days. I hope it goes well.


Posted by willmcmahan at 12:01 AM PDT
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Tuesday, 14 June 2016
Hmm. This could be trouble.

This morning started great! A beautiful day, mostly blue sky. I like early starts because if something goes wrong, then one has more time to adjust before dark. In this case, there was to be an interesting mix of hills, coulees, and the crown was to be a three mile long climb, about 17 miles from my end destination, the town of Denton.

It was warm enough to not need a jacket, but cloudy enough to not overheat.

I can tell that I am away from the big cities, because the meal prices plummet.  When was the last time that I only got charged .50 for a large, refillable iced tea?  The server at lunch wished me well, and hoped that I would miss the big storm that was supposed to arrive this afternoon. That was news, but in conflict with the weather app on my phone. (Note to self:  Do not pay attention to the weather app anymore)

The afternoon went well, and I could see, in the distance, the big climb. I knew I could do it, but it would not be easy. Several miles from the start of the climb, I came up to another road project. Once again, they loaded up my bike in the back of a pickup, and carried me all the way to the top! Thank you, Lord.  A few miles later, a sign said "Denton 14 miles". I'll get into town early, get my tent set up in the park, and relax.

An antelope mother with its fawn, crossed the road in front of me. What a beautiful day. 

In my mirror I could see black clouds behind me. The wind seemed to be blowing a different direction. Maybe, I will not have to deal with it. As the road turned to the right, I realized that this was no ordinary storm. The rain, from the clouds to the ground, was a dark grey, almost black. Instead of getting wet, I might get very, very wet. It looked like the storm was going to bypass me.

About five miles from Denton, it was becoming clear that the storm was coming my way, and doing it quickly. My plan was to keep pedaling, on the chance that I could make it to town before the rain. But if I got caught, I would stop, put my rain coat and pants on, and continue to town.

All of a sudden, this incredibly violent wind whipped me all the way across the road, still upright and rolling. Fortunately, there was little traffic on the road, and none at the moment. But the wind was blowing VERY hard, to the point that I was leaning hard into it to keep from being blown over. I had to get to cover, but where? A hundred yards ahead were some metal granaries, with an open, unfenced driveway to them. I ducked behind the biggest one, in the lee of the wind, put on my rain gear, and hunkered down.  This was no ordinary storm, it felt like the fringe of a tornado, though no funnel could be seen. I thought this might be it. Is this what you had planned, Lord? 

Hmm, where does one hide in the open if a tornado hits. I found an old concrete foundation, sticking 18 inches above the ground, and only 4 feet across that I could dive into if necessary.

Slowly, the winds started to slow down. After 45 minutes, I walked out to the road, and decided I could ride safely to town. Of course, setting up a tent in this wind could be problematic.

Finding the cafe in town, I had several hot chocolates, which warmed me up, and calmed me down. Come to find out, there was a motel in town, with an available room.

In talking to the locals, this was an uncommon storm. The winds were 70 mph.  One lady described how her car started to lift on one side, then the other while driving. One man had two big cottonwood trees completely uprooted. There were lots of trees broken in half, and power lines down because of fallen trees.

If tomorrow is back to normal, then I am back on the road again. The sooner I finish, the sooner I get back with Karen. Boy, I miss her. 

Before leaving home, I pictured headwinds as being the main meteorelogical complication I would face in Montana. Now I am finding all sorts of wild storm cells criss crossing the state. It looks like the whole United States is facing severe weather. It is clear that I will have to use caution and care moving forward. 

If the weather is still bad or unusually windy, there are worse places to be than in Denton, Montana.

God's blessings to you all. 


Posted by willmcmahan at 6:09 PM PDT
Updated: Sunday, 19 June 2016 5:27 PM PDT
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Monday, 13 June 2016
After a day of rest,a new start

Late yesterday was shocking when I discovered all the new terrain that I would have to cover. A heavy load rested on my shoulders as I tried to figure out the best places to eat and to stay. Then I reminded myself that I am not alone. God is not my co-pilot, He is the pilot. So after some earnest prayer, the burden lifted.

Today was another early start, on the road by 7:45 AM. It took a while to get out of Great Falls, but once out of town things went smoothly. Not easily, but smoothly. Morning had its fair share of climbing. Often, the climbing is to get out of a Coulee  (I called them canyons earlier). Typically you drop into a Coulee at a high speed, then it is level for a while. Then the climbing starts. Several times this morning, the climbs lasted from 20 to 30 minutes. One has to think about something other the fatigue building in the legs. For the first time this trip, the Department of Highways decided that some of the steeper parts would be better with gravel, not asphalt. It must help give cars better traction in the winter, but was not a plus to a bicycler.

All in all, the body felt okay by lunch, despite the climbing. There was only one more climb in the afternoon, then a gentle downhill grade to my projected stop, Fort Benton.   

Today's 60 miles was just preparation for some challenging days ahead. Tomorrow will have more mileage and climbing, and will end with me camping in a city park. Woe to those shopkeepers who have this smelly bicycler entering their business.😊

Fort Benton is a beautiful little town, featuring five museums. At one time it was a trading post for trappers, then became a military post, then a major trade center when gold was discovered. It has a fascinating history, all because the Missouri River flows through it. The federally protected Missouri Breaks are a wonderland for sightseeing and exploring in the river. Much of this area has not changed since Lewis and Clark came through in the early 1800s.

The good news is that the weather forecast of rain for tomorrow has been dropped to only a 20% chance. Temperatures are still moderate, with highs around 80 degrees. 

Blessings. 


Posted by willmcmahan at 6:34 PM PDT
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Sunday, 12 June 2016
Whoops!

This day started so great. Nine hours of restful sleep. Modest breakfast next door. Sunday School and Service with wonderful people.  Getting supplies, then lunch. Chatting with Karen and friends on the cell phone. Maybe this might be a good time to go over my schedule for next week.

Whoops!

Did I ever make a whopper of a mistake! Somehow I got the idea that I could boat from Fort Benton to Fort Beck, bicycle and all. Before leaving home I realized that that would not happen, but I forgot to adjust my itinerary. Daily mileages are a function of terrain, and availability of food and camping/lodging. This terrain will be very tiring. Food and shelter will be scarce.

My best guess is that I will be in North Dakota , not the four days I earlier announced, but in ten days, including a rest day somewhere. Oh, Lord be with me.

ESTHER IS IN TROUBLE: If you have been reading this journal, you may recall that Karen's friend, Esther Harmon, joined us for the first three and one half days before she and Karen peeled off for home. She commented on how she liked the drawstrings on the legs of my shorts. I asked "Why?" She said "So that a bee couldn't fly up the shorts."  Having ridden over 7,000 miles without the drawstring pulled tight, I kept my mouth shut, but thought it interesting what some can find to worry about. The last day, I had put on clean shorts, on which the drawstrings were pulled tight. I had tightened them on a photo shoot before I left home. After the girls left for home, as I was pedaling along, I realized that I had forgotten to unloosen the drawstrings. Temperatures were around 90, and the extra cool air would feel good.

They hadn't been loosened for even a minute, when a bee flew up the shorts, found itself trapped, and started stinging me. it did not survive long, but the memory of how Esther jinxed me still lives. If she had just kept her mouth shut it probably never would have happened.😊 

 


Posted by willmcmahan at 3:27 PM PDT
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Saturday, 11 June 2016
Murphy's law, Montana style

Last night I got my tent set up, all the gear inside, the mattress pad and sleeping bag laid out, and food in the tummy. What is next? I need to write my daily journal.

The moment I finished, it started to rain and blow with fury. I scurried into the bar at the motel, and, along with the other patrons, watched sheets of rain turn into hail, then back into sheets of rain again. I wondered how well I had pegged down the tent. Ten minutes later, I found out. It was still there. I also discoveed that the tent leaks. The panniers were wet, but by laying tomorrow's bicycle clothing on top of my shoes, they were dry. A small amount of water had pooled on the floor, but my chamois "bath towel" quickly soaked it up. The mattress pad was wet, but the sleeping bag was dry.☺

Unfortunately, that was just the first act to this thunderstorm, which acted up all night.

But not when I got up! Up at 6 AM, packed (albeit wet) by 7 AM, breakfast at Mel's Diner (i'm not kidding), and on the road a few minutes before 8 AM. I did not sleep well last night, but a motel room and bed would be in Great Falls, so that was good motivation.

For the first time, I donned my rain jacket and rain pants first thing, and wore them all day, even though it did not rain. It was cold, in the 50s, with a breeze.

The only thing that kept today's ride from being perfect was the lack of eating establishments for lunch. 42 miles after breakfast, I had some deep fried foods at a bar.

Tomorrow is a rest day. My motel, in Great Falls, is across the street from a Methodist Church, perfect for worship tomorrow. Believe it or not, there is a laundromat next door, and an abundance of eating establishments within walking distance.

After doing laundry, it will be a good time to study scripture. In Everett, my fellow Children Leaders from Men's Bible Study Fellowship, are doing homiletics from selected scriptures in John, our study the Fall. So I have been doing them, at the same time, while on the road.

The last 6 days of riding covered 368 miles. If my calculations are correct (not something you should bet money on) I should be in North Dakota before next weekend. There is supposed to be lots of hill climbing in eastern Montana, and probably in North Dakota, also. Minnesota, however should be flat. 

God bless you all. 


Posted by willmcmahan at 4:32 PM PDT
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Friday, 10 June 2016
There is no room at the inn.

Part of today's plan went well, then it started going downhill faster than a Montana thunderstom. 

Studying today's route last night, I realized that there were no services between Lincoln, where I stayed last night, and tonight's stop, Augusta, MT. That meant I would have to pack lunch, snacks and extra water. Temperatures were supposed to be 6-8 degrees warmer today than yesterday. This put my total bike weight over the 100 pound mark😊.  

Roger's Pass was on my mind. I did not think it would be daunting. Lincoln, my starting point was already at 4,600 feet. The first 13 miles brought me up to over 5,300 feet. The final climb was not steep, and I had descended 500 feet before deciding to have lunch.

The entire trip today was scheduled to be 56 miles, and it looked like today was going to be just as good as yesterday was. Unfortunately that ended up not being the case.

There were several times that the road dropped sharply down into a canyon, then I had to slowly crawl back out again. My map showed two of these, but I am sure there were more. The climbs out of these canyons were longer and steeper than Roger's Pass. After a while, this began to take its toll. I had no more food, and I was going through the water and Gatorade fast.

Partway through the descent off the Pass, the vegetation changed. It probably changed much earlier, but this is when I noticed it. The conifer trees were gone, and the land looked like cattle country. This is the way it wI'll be the rest of the trip through Montana, I expect.

Making a turn to Augusta, I was able to see the mountain range, very majestic and pretty. It was hard to imagine that I had been winding through them for days.

Only 20 miles to Augusta, and I was starting to tire. But 20 miles should't take too long. Then I noticed the darkening clouds, quickly obscuring the mountains, and dropping rain. Lots of it. We appeared to be on a collision course. Oh well, I'd either get rained on or not. It will not be the first time, and will happen often on this sojourn.

Although it was dumping hard to the west, north and northeast, it was sunny overhead, and this lasted all the way into town. Now I just need to get a room.

There were no rooms available. Not anywhere. Apparently farm equipment auctions are big draws in these parts. So, for the first time this trip, I am camping. There is plenty of space behind the motel, and I could use the showers.

Walking back my tent, the heavens opened up with thunder and it finally started to rain. Hmm, stay in tent and wait for the rain to stop, or throw on a rain coat and go find some grub! My stomach prevailed and I was none the worse for walking in the rain.

Tomorrow, is a 49-60 mile day, depending on the source. Then I will have reached Great Falls and a day of rest and recuperation.


Posted by willmcmahan at 6:38 PM PDT
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Thursday, 9 June 2016
The choices we make

This bicycle journey is a lot like life. It is good or not so good, depending on the choices I make. Choices such as: the route taken; the daily mileage; where to eat; when to rest. The dynamics may be different for than for you, but all of us make decisions (choices) all day, every day.

My itinerary showed me riding 52 miles today, and camping. Then tomorrow was to be a 84 miler, including going over Roger's Pass. Unfortunately, the Pass would be late in the afternoon, when I would be tired. What else might work better?

Studying my map, I discovered that if I went 28 additional miles today, giving me 80 miles total, I would reduce Friday's mileage to 56. Additionally, I would be summiting Roger's Pass 17 miles into the day. As a bonus, there would be a motel to stay in.

The question is: How would the body hold up? The answer, besides "Who knows?", is "What does it matter?" I am either doing 80 miles today or 84 tomorrow. Let's get it over with today.  

Another 5 AM MST wake up. Finishing prayers and devotions by 6 AM, I was on the road before 7 AM. 

The road was nice, and the scenery was flat out gorgeous. Had breakfast an hour onto the ride. Something was different. It was cooler outside. It even sprinkled a little. This, the 9th day of riding, was the first day when the temperature did not get into the 80s. In fact, I do not think it got above 75 degrees.

The ride was typical: Lots of climbing then lots of descending. But the day went smoothly, and, for the first time, I was not tired when, at 4 PM, I checked in to a motel. Strange, huh? The fourth consecutive day of riding, the longest day so far, and I feel great! It might have been the weather. It might have been the fact that I filled my water bottle up with Gatorade instead of water. Or maybe the body is starting to get inured to bike travel. Or maybe God decided to specially bless this day of cycling. Or maybe all of them, but I look forward to more like it.

Tomorrow will be similar to today, only shorter, 56 miles, and a mountain pass to conquer. One more day of riding on Saturday, then another day of rest, on Sunday, in Great Falls.

The weather has been unusual. The Plains are known for violent rainstorms, and there have been lots of severe thunderstorms in this area, just not where I am.

Yesterday at the Adventure Cycling Association office, I picked up the Fed Ex envelope from Karen. Inside was an object that I forgot to transfer from my clip-on bike shoes to the shoes I am using on this trip. It is intended to be an aid to emergency personnel in the event of an accident. It states my name, my hometown, my home phone number, it notes that I am an organ donor, my blood type, and, perhaps most importantly, the words "Lord watch over me."

Blessings to you all. 

 


Posted by willmcmahan at 6:23 PM PDT
Updated: Friday, 10 June 2016 5:41 PM PDT
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Wednesday, 8 June 2016
What? 97 pounds? You're kidding!

Today's production, as in many days, was a function of the decisions made. Uppermost on my mind was to make it to the Adventure Cycling Association office in Missoula before it closed at 5 PM. Choosing to stay in Superior, MT, meant a 60 miles ride. Had I gone to the next town, 20 miles closers to Missoula, today might have been a lot easier.

Hmm. If I want to leave Superior by 7 AM (6 AM PST), what time do I need to get up? Which is more important, extra sleep, or devotions? I opted for devotions, and set the alarm clock for 5 AM (4 AM PST).

Everything went smoothly, and I was on the road by 6:40 AM MST.  If things went well, I might be under cover before the thunderstorms hit in the afternoon.  The first thing I noticed when I got onto I-90 was a sign indicating 27 miles to the next town with a motel. This means that had I decided to get a room at the next town, yesterday's 53 miles would have become an 80 miler. Good grief, I am glad I stayed in Superior last night.

Temperatures were expected to be in the low 90's again, but the sun conveniently hid behind clouds most of the morning.

I had forgotten just how darned beautiful western Montana is. As I wove my way through the Bitterroot Mountains, the beauty was striking.

As usual there were lots of construction projects on I--90, lasting from 2-8 miles. It reminds me of the old joke: What are the 4 seasons in Montana called?  Pre-snow, snow, snow, and road construction.

By early afternoon, I pulled up in front of the American Cycling Association (ACA) office. This is the mecca for touring bicyclists. For drop in tourers, they have free ice cream, sodas, juices and water. They also have large tire pumps which would come in handy. I was given a tour of the building. It was unusual to be the only visitor, as there were a half dozen visitors 8 years ago.  A bunch arrived as I was leaving.

Before leaving, I was airing up my tires when a man walked up. He said "I understand that you had your photo taken here 8 years ago. I am the photographer." I acknowledged the photo, but did not remember him. He said "I want to take another one." I agreed to allow him to do it as long as I could get a copy. We went behind the building where his backdrop is. In every issue of Adventure Cycling magazine there is a photo of a touring bicyclers in front of the backdrop. I am not expecting my photo to make the cut.

After we were done, he said that the ACA has added something new, weighing the bikes and gear, if the owner was interested. I was!!  You see, I knew it was around 85 pounds, and it always interested me on how people, without cargo, talk about there long rides, or the ease of summiting mountain passas, when their bikes weigh less than 25 pounds. My upright bicycle at home weighs 18 pounds and Steven's Pass was a lot easier on it than the one I am on now.

We tied a cloth band around my bike, then lifted it high enough so that the tires were off the ground when I let go. It weighed 97 pounds!!! Yikes. Small wonder that it is slow and difficult going uphill.

Tomorrow starts a new page on this journey. Up to now, I had been familiar with almost all of the route over the last 9 days. Thursday will be all new territory. I have not been this way before, and tomorrow will be my first night of camping. Day #2 will have my last mountain pass, Roger's Pass. At the end of the third day, I hope to be in Great Falls, then another day of rest.

I don't know when the next journal entry will be made.  It may be two or three days.

Good night all. 


Posted by willmcmahan at 6:20 PM PDT
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Tuesday, 7 June 2016
Montana, here I come!

Today looked to be a mixture of slow, grinding climbing, and downhill descents. Wallace, Idaho is not far from Lookout Pass, the border between Idaho and Montana.  The Coeur d'Alene Trail continues through Wallace and goes to the next town, Mullan. Then one gets on I-90 to the summit. I was calculating 8 miles on I-90 before the summit, but I think I overestimated the mileage. Regardless, I did not have to ride it.

As I started onto the on ramp to I-90, a pick up, with a flashing light, pulled alongside. There was a bunch of road work being done eastbound, and bicyclers were not allowed to ride it. Instead we loaded the bike into the back of his truck, and he carried me five miles over the pass. As we were driving, I noticed how narrow the lane was. I would have gotten squashed like a bug on a windshield.

The driver asked about the flag on the end of my antenna, which says "Body and Soul" . It gave me an opportunity to explain the Good News about Christ's death, burial, resurrection and assension to sit on the right hand of the Father. Believing this, and opening one'side heart to the Lord is a transformative experience.

The next decision was whether to still stop in Superior, MT, or try to go further. I decided, rightly or wrongly, to stop. 53 miles was enough, and I didn't feel like going another 20 miles. It seems like the right choice. What could go wrong?

Well, for starters, I have to be in Missoula, 60 miles away, before 5 PM. Karen Fed Ex-ed a letter to me that I need.  No problem, I will just leave early, say 7 AM, that should solve it! Did I mention that I am in a new time zone now? Leaving at 7 AM, is, to my body clock, like leaving at 6 AM.  Did I mention that thunderstorms are predicted tomorrow afternoon?   It appears that grinding through that extra 20 miles today, would have made tomorrow a lot easier. 

I will let you know how tomorrow goes. If you have not seen my Facebook page, there is a funny photo from this morning. Take a look.

Blessings on you all.  

 


Posted by willmcmahan at 6:46 PM PDT
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